The pressure Filter, the Autofilter, integrated into the Pressure Regulator Telecontrol Exact is not assuring a clog free condition to the nozzles.
Very probably, the filtering cartridge is damaged. This can happen in case of:

• Use of not clear water but containing sand or alike: taken from a canal or river
• Use of Copper based insecticide for a long time

If BALL type:

• Check the stainless steel spring and ball
• Replace any damaged part. If DIAPHRAGM type
• The diaphragm is damaged.
• Remove the cover and replace it.

If PISTON type:

• Probably it was not done a proper flushing of the spray circuit after work and some residues are impeding closing, or
• The spring is broken (rare). Check: if so, replace.
• The lip seal is damaged (rare). Check: if so, replace.

For a good maintenance of the machine check every day:

• Pump Oil Level 
• Engine Oil Level 
• Engine Fuel Level 
• Engine Radiator Liquid level

To prolong the life of the machine and to prevent boring waste of time and inefficiencies at the next utilization, it is essential to do the following washes after each use:

• Wash the spraying circuit of the sprayer
• Wash the pumping circuit of the Micro-dosing pump.

Before leaving on a spraying mission, remember to do all supplies:

• Main Spray tank (Water) 
• Washing circuit tank  (Water)
• Hand washing tank (Fresh Water)
• Small tanks for formulations for Micro dosing pump (if present)
• Thermal fog mixture tank (if present)

1. If the Electro valve works "only sometimes", it is most likely an electrical connection unstable.

• Check all the points of the circuit and tighten the electrical connection points of an unstable or uncertain.
• Check all points of the circuit and tighten the electrical connection points of an unstable or uncertain.

2. If the Electro valve does not work at all, this may be due to a still unstable electrical connection or a broken wire.

• Remedy: as above.

3. If the Electro valve does not work at all, this could also be due to a worn ball valve for long use.

• Remedy: Replace the ball valve.  

TIFONE new system also preventing any short circuit and power loss.

ELECTROSTATICS (E±S+): Does not spark:
The START button is on, but by bridging with a screwdriver there is no spark.

Possible causes:

• No electric currant: Check the feeding wiring. 
• Possible damage to the internal circuit (rare): Call TIFONE Technical Service.

The current is discharged to the mouthpiece.
Cause: Dirt residual between ring Polarizer and mouthpiece. Remove residual.

BUT:

1. Beware of electric shock! They are powerful.
2. Stops Electrostatics.
3. Stop the engine.
4. As a precaution, Download the residual current with an insulated screwdriver.
5. Now Remove the dirt between the ring and the mouthpiece.
6. If there is a lot of accumulated dirt and you cannot do a perfect cleaning, disassemble the ring Polarizer from the mouthpiece, remove all residual and comeback.

The engine is equipped with a motorized throttle with progressive action, both when accelerating and decelerating the engine, controlled from push-button.

• In case of non-operation, Check that all electrical connections are active
• Check the dipstick motorized controls the throttle wire
• If it does not move, it can be accidentally locked at the end of the stroke.
• Remedy: Loosen the 3 bolts holding the cylindrical body and activate from the push-button. Once released, tighten the 3 bolts again.

Remember that, for a good life of the engine, the oil should be changed according to the instructions of the manufacturer, i.e.:

• First change: after the first 20 hours. 
• Subsequently: every 100 hours. 

NOTE: At every oil change you should also replace the oil filter cartridge and the fuel filter cartridge.
On this occasion, it is also a practice to clean the air intake filter of the engine.

1. Accelerator too idle: Act on throttle switch on the push-button. 
2. Fuel missing: Please make full and bleed air from the pump and injectors. 
3. There is air in the fuel circuit: Please make fuel full and bleed air from the pump and injectors.

Classical formulas useful in the spraying practice
(Download the attachment below). 

Gauge pressure too low:
Adjust pressure until 30-35 bars or more, by turning the Red knob on Pressure regulator clockwise.

It 's a device deputed to absorb the accidental shocks to Mouthpiece of Cannon "Flexigun", in the event of unforeseen obstacles, at work and during transfers.
Prevents damage to the otherwise often serious with costly work interruption and repairs. The impact-absorbing device is based on a clutch ring system.
It also brings the exclusive added benefit of changing the spraying sector in the horizontal plane, allowing the spraying even in directions not otherwise be reached, that is, beyond 360°.
The planned collimator "Reset" -> • allows easy, immediate realignment to standard active sector (TIFONE Pat.)

To prolong the life of the machine, minimize inconveniences and prevent boring waste of time and inefficiencies at the next utilization, it is essential to do the following washes after each use:

• Wash the spraying circuit of the sprayer
• Wash the pumping circuit of the Micro-dosing pump. 

Never forget to do at least the following Periodic Maintenance:

1. After the first 20 hours:

• Change the engine oil,
• Replace the engine oil filter cartridge,
• Check pump oil level. Do not add oil beyond the minimum notch.

2. Every 50 hours:

• Check the radiator coolant level,
• Check the engine air-filter (if you work in a dusty environment),

3. Each subsequent 100 hours:

• Change the engine oil,
• Replace the oil filter cartridge,
• Replace the fuel filter cartridge,
• Check the belt tension at the engine
• Check the belt tension at the pump
• Grease all movements. 

Did you make the washing the last time you used it?
If "NO", the pump could be clogged...

How to proceed:

1. Check that the pump is actually turning. 
2. If so, you make an attempt to Wash it now: 

• Adjust it to the maximum flow rate by turning the knob (clockwise!) till to expose the metering scale up to 10. 
• Open the valve to draw water washing 
• Open the Draining valve 3. If, after 10-20 seconds, the Draining valve is not discharging, it is likely that the pump is really clogged. 

Remember! The Micro-dosing pump must be washed after each use. Clogging only happens if you do not perform regular wash, strictly prescribed after each use. However, try to insist a bit more... let the pump run for 5 minutes further. If the pump is very clogged and not get to pump, call TIFONE Fast Technical Service.

Case 1 - The indicator light turns on "only sometimes": may be due to an unstable electrical connection.

Remedy: Check all the points of the circuit and tighten the connections are unstable or uncertain.

Case 2 - The indicator light "does not turn on absolutely": still may be due to an unstable connection or a broken wire.

Remedy: as above

Case 3 - The indicator light "does not turn on absolutely" can also be due to a broken lamp.

Remedy: Check and, if necessary, replace the lamp.

Case 4 - The electromagnetic sensor is unregulated and not from the consent of the Micro dosing power (check that the arrow sensor is aligned with the adjustment line on the sticker on the front)

The adjustment of the electromagnetic sensor is done as follows:

1. Bring 2 mm Allen key (supplied)
2. Loosen the small peak screw placed on the black body of the sensor,
3. Slide the sensor until the arrow lines up with the line sensor adjustment.
4. Tighten back the small peak screw with the Allen key. 

As stated above, if the pump has not been thoroughly washed after the last use, it may be clogged with product residue sediment.

If you want to do it yourself act as follows:

1. Adjust the pump to the maximum flow rate, by turning the knob (clockwise!) to fully expose the graduated scale up to 10.
2. Loosen the screw under the small glass; remove it, empty and clean,
3. Also remove the filter located at the head of the small glass and wash it,
4. If the small glass is containing some Formulate, but it is not settled but well fluid, after washed, filter and small glass comeback and try as follows:
5. Make sure all small valves, under the respective small tanks for formulate, and are closed,
6. Prepare a small bowl (just a half-litre bottle filled with water for washing)
7. Carry on the suction tube for washing,
8. Please enter it in the bottle making sure it is well dipped in,
9. With the knob in the position of maximum flow rate as mentioned above, start the Micro dosing pump and let it run for a few minutes hoping that manages to primes and expel the residues.
10. Note: The bottle will not be resting on the ground but placed at a height greater than that of the Micro-dosing pump (to help suction).
11. If the Micro-dosing pump gets to prime, everything is solved.

Leave it withdraw the entire contents of the bottle to complete the wash. 

It should not happen ever. The causes may be:

1. We have not performed the washing of the circuit after the last use of the machine and a part of the mixture has settled creating solid bodies.
   Remedy: Remove all nozzle tips, start the cannon and let it spray for a few seconds. Thoroughly clean the clogged tips and reassemble. 
2. The AUTOFILTER cartridge is damaged. This may happen from a prolonged use of water containing sand or earth, typical of the water withdrawn from the channels.
   Remedy: Remove the brass back of pressure regulator and replace the damaged cartridge. Replace the 3 seals as well. 

If you do not have the cartridge and seals in stock, Please call TIFONE Fast Technical Service.

The spray pressure is too low:
Increase the pressure, turning the red knob clockwise on pressure regulator.

• There are air bubbles left in the circuit or there is an aspiration of air. 
• There are air bubbles in the circuit or there is an aspiration of air. 

Remedy: See “PUMP: Vibrating and Pulsating pressure.

Adjusting of a TIFONE Propeller is fast and easy.
You should, however, do a little practical exercise, to learn how to run the operation with ease and in just 6 seconds.

Some Basic Information:
As the Propeller has a limited inertial weight, is that the operation of the locking release, shall be made with a fast movement.
You only need to learn how to make the required quick movements with the "adjusting key".
The safety grid of the fan has a central disc with a hole, for the entry of adjusting key, and to reach the centre of the "Big red nut" with a cross-shaped indentation.
Through one of the several slots of the same grid, the adjusting key can then reach a "peripheral slots" found on the propeller cup, cup whose rotation determines the instant adjustment of the 8 propeller blades altogether.
The adjusting key will be rotated "counter clockwise" to loosen the "Big red nut” propeller, and clockwise to relock it, after the blades adjustment is done.

How to proceed:

1. Hold the adjusting key as follows (for "right-handed" operators):
   • With the Left hand, hold the straight end of the adjusting key (the long end with the final bent as "L")
   • With the Right hand, firmly hold instead the articulated extreme short end of adjusting key.
2. Now focus on the fact that your left hand will only keep the bent end within the cross notch of the "Big red nut", while, with your right hand, you will have to transmit an "instantaneous momentum," strong enough to loosen the "Big red nut".
3. Focusing now on the light weight of the propeller itself, we must use the most of its low inertial mass.
4. So, if we apply a slow torsional movement, we do not get enough impact to unlock the "Big red nut". A quick right hand movement, a "jerk", is essential.
5. Prior to the rapid movement thereof, to get a higher torsional effect, you must also take a short pre-rotation of the propeller in the opposite direction, and then make the move as quickly as possible, in the direction required for the function (Left hand to release, right hand to relock)
6. Repeat a few times to become familiar with this type of fast motion, focusing on points 2.3.4.5., and the operation will soon become easy, instinctive and effective.
7. Be careful not to overdo the locking of "Big red nut".
   In fact, the force required to release it is a bit 'higher” than the force required for locking, once the adjustment is made. If you block the "Big red nut" too strong, it will be necessary a greater force to unlock it, next time you have to change the adjustment.
8. So, No need, to over tighten the "Big red nut".
9. Normally, it is sufficient a tightening average, obtained with 2-3 pulses, to prevent any accidental
10. loss of adjustment.

Diaphragm replacement is an operation a bit delicate requiring some special attention. If you did not have a precise experience, it is best to contact an authorized Service or an expert technician.

Anyway, please observe the following steps:

1. Remove the pump from the machine.
2. Place it on a clean workbench.
3. Take away all the heads of the pump and its diaphragms.
4. Completely empty the sump pump from waste oil and water, tipping it.
5. Make a thorough cleaning of the interior of the pump housing with diesel, and drain thoroughly to remove any residue.
6. Wipe the inside of the pump housing by means of a jet of compressed air.
7. Make sure that the mechanical parts (connecting rods, shaft, bearings, pistons) have not been damaged by a possible prolonged use of the pump, after the breaking of the diaphragms occurred.
8. In the event, replace the damaged machine parts.
9. Perform the assembly of new diaphragms and associated nuts and disc retainer.
10. Enter oil level through the pump glass, until it reaches the minimum level marked on it.
11. Exhaust air. The total exhaust air from beneath the membranes is fundamental because if air bubbles remain under the same, it can lead to a new, immediate or rapid breakdown.
12. To discharge the air, rotate the pump shaft by hand, slowly, to facilitate the expulsion, which will be seen bubbling through the glass. The shaft rotation will be effected with advantage " in alternating directions".
13. Top up the oil level. With the expulsion of the air, the oil level will drop.... Fill in small doses and continue to rotate the shaft in both directions, until no air bubble is discharged through the glass.
14. Completed the air discharge, you can mono the pump on the machine.
15. Important - It 's need to be sure that no air is left inside, which will prevents the complete filling of oil chamber between piston and diaphragm, with the emergence of air bubbles that could lead to a rapid re-breaking of the diaphragms themselves.
16. Therefore - Before using the machine finally, rotate the pump shaft still SLOWLY for 5 min. to 15 bars, for complete safety with the total air expulsion.
17. Then check again and adjust the oil level that, at stopped pump, shall not exceed the minimum level mark indicated on the glass.

This can be determined by:

1. Suction filter partially clogged. Remedy: Open the filter, check and clean it. Make sure to refit the O-ring correctly to prevent dripping and aspirations of the air!
2. Sump in the tank partially clogged. Remedy: Check that the sump in the tank is completely free of foreign matter accidentally fallen into tank. (Fruits, rags, etc., or heavy sediment).

IMPORTANT: Never remove the filter provided in the filling hatch of the tank. If even slightly damaged, replace it immediately. Thus you prevent many possible unwanted inconvenience and loss of time.

May be due to the following reasons:

1. There is a leakage of air in suction.
   Remedy: Completely fill the spray tank, remove the bonnet to discover the pump and observe that there are no drips from the filter intake that may have been poorly re-fitted after cleaning and O-ring seal not doing good now. In the case of drip, loosen and remove the nut and the filter cap and reassemble making sure that the O-ring is well lodged. Tighten by hand, so not too much. If the filter does not lose suction, verify that there are no leaks either from the suction pipe and related fittings, suction from the filter to the tank.
2. The intake filter is clogged. In this case the pump also makes a net noise of " flapping " generated by the valves that fail to work freely. Carefully formulated to mix 2 or more! ... Some of them are mutually reactive and can precipitate and form dense mash that clog the filter and inlet pipes!
   Remedy: Open the suction filter, check and thoroughly clean the cartridge and reassemble. Pay attention to the O-ring, which must be carefully reassembled to prevent dripping and aspirations of air (see point 1.)
3. The suction circuit is blocked from the inside of the tank. In this case the pump also makes a net noise of "flutter".
   Remedy: Check that the sump, inside the tank, is free and there are no foreign objects such as fruits, rags or other.
   IMPORTANT: Never remove the filter inlet of the tank and instead replace it immediately as soon as it was minimally damaged! This prevents future problems!
4. The 3-way selecting valve is set to WASH and the rinsing tank is empty!
   Remedy: Check and report on SPRAY.
5. The 3-way selecting valve is set to FILTER and then closed
   Remedy: Check and report on SPRAY.
6. The pump may have one or more diaphragms damaged. To check that:
   • Remove the cap on the oil level glass of the pump and check that it is oil is ok and mixed with water,
   • if the oil level is seemingly low, remember that the pump is stopped, and the oil should be barely visible, that at the notch in the lower level, and then add only the minimum necessary,
   • If the oil contains no water and level is correct, the pump is ok.
7. The red pressure-adjusting knob is totally zero.
   Remedy: check.

You need to replace all diaphragms and gaskets.
Diaphragm replacement is an operation a bit delicate and requires some special attention.
If you do not have experience about, it is better to contact an authorized Service or an experienced technician.

In any case, the following steps should be followed:

1. Remove the pump from the machine.
2. Place it on a clean workbench.
3. Take away all the heads of the pump and its diaphragms.
4. Completely empty the sump pump from waste oil and water, tipping it.
5. Make a thorough cleaning of the interior of the pump housing with diesel, and drain thoroughly to remove any residue.
6. Wipe the inside of the pump housing by means of a jet of compressed air.
7. Make sure that the mechanical parts (connecting rods, shaft, bearings, pistons) have not been damaged by a possible prolonged use of the pump, after the breaking of the diaphragms occurred.
8. In the event, replace the damaged machine parts.
9. Perform the assembly of new diaphragms and associated nuts and disc retainer.
10. Enter oil level through the pump glass, until it reaches the minimum level marked on it.
11. Exhaust air. The total exhaust air from beneath the membranes is fundamental because if air bubbles remain under the same, it can lead to a new, immediate or rapid breakdown.
12. To discharge the air, rotate the pump shaft by hand, slowly, to facilitate the expulsion, which will be seen bubbling through the glass.
13. The shaft rotation will be effected with advantage " in alternating directions "
14. Top up the oil level. With the expulsion of the air, the oil level will drop.... Fill in small doses and continue to rotate the shaft in both directions, until no air bubble is discharged through the glass.
15. Once completed the air discharging, you can now mount the pump on the machine again.
16. IMPORTANT - It 's need to be sure that no air is left inside, which will prevents the complete filling of oil chamber between piston and diaphragm, with the emergence of air bubbles that could lead to a rapid re-breaking of the diaphragms themselves.
17. THEREFORE - Before using the machine finally, rotate the pump shaft still SLOWLY for 5 min. to 15 bars, for complete safety with the total air expulsion.
18. Then check again and adjust the oil level that, at stopped pump, shall not exceed the minimum level mark indicated on the glass.

It may be due to:

1. The pump has not downloaded completely air bubbles from the circuit.
Remedy: Open the drain valve provided at the entrance of Pressure regulator, take the red knob at zero pressure and let discharge for a while. If pulsating persists,

2. There is an infiltration of air in the suction line.
Remedy:  Fill the tank and see if there are drips from the filter intake or some other point of the suction circuit (pipes and fittings). In this case, delete them.

3. A suction valve or pressure valve has spring or cage damaged (after very long use). This is likely only in pumps that have worked a lot.
Remedy: Remove the pump valves on both the suction and pressure side and check. Replace any damaged valves.

CAUTION. Do not mount back the valve overturned! Or this will produce the pump explosion.

Possible causes:
Broken fuse on control panel or inside box plant.
Identify and replace the fuse with the same rating.

If the problem recurs, please call TIFONE Fast Technical Service.

• The fog nozzle is unscrewed inside the thermal box. 
• Remove the nozzle holder, check and fix. 
• Do a fast function test and mount it again, 
• Important: When the Thermal fog function is not used for a long time, it is recommended to remove the nozzle from the thermal box and put it to soak in diesel fuel.. 
• If left mounted, the exhaust gases of the engine makes it dirty and clogged, so then does not atomise. 
• In the hole that remains free from the nozzle removed, fit the cap as supplied. 
• If the problem recurs, call TIFONE Fast Technical Service.

Make the following checks, in sequence:

1. The switch is turned on?
2. The plug on the power cord is properly plugged?
3. The power cord has no abrasions?
4. Cable ends are securely fastened inside the plug?
5. The fuse is in good condition?

A warning light on is denouncing anomaly.

• You must check immediately for the cause and eliminate it! 
• Stop the machine, check and repair!

When the spray tank is empty, the wash will be integral, that you will get the washing of the whole circuit:
the pump, filters, manifolds, the nozzles as well as the interior of the tank.

When the spray tank still contains mixture, and you do not want to dilute it, wash can be limited to the circuit, i.e. to the pump, filters, piping, manifolds and the nozzles, but excluding the spray tank.
Proceed as follows:

1. Turn Sucking valve of the spray pump from SPRAY to WASH  
2. Adjust the pressure regulator to the maximum,
3. Open the spray feedings valves
4. Start the engine and let it idle.
5. In fact, with the engine idling, the pump produces a minimum flow, always enough to do the wash, but without producing an excess of capacity and, therefore, without discharging wash water back into the spray tank.
6. Furthermore, the pressure, adjusted to the maximum, will force the entire flow produced by the pump to discharge through the nozzles, and not to return to the spray tank.
7. After the washing, remember to return the valve to SPRAY.